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有幸参加2012远征贡嘎秘境——NEXTORCH（纳丽德）探索之旅和蜀山探险彭小龙,紫笛，阿苏，老廖，晓风一起探秘贡嘎附属山峰朗格漫音雪山的攀登，最后因为紫笛和小龙在攀登过程中遭遇小型雪崩，紫笛直接被砸的整个人半空中悬着转了360°，幸亏小龙做了三个冰锥保护。在下撤途中由于和阿苏，老廖分开路线（雪太深突然遭遇雪崩为安全分开攀登）下撤器材不够，小龙和紫笛把所有办法都用尽才安全下撤。最后扔在路线上很多器材。 前几天十一前后刚刚从稻城出来，此次由来到康定看到以前老榆林和贡嘎转山熟悉的一幕一幕，当年走贡嘎的时候高反和带了三箱方便面进山，那时候六月的天气也是非常的美丽（https//bbs.8264.com/thread-417724-1-1.html铁丐一张照片引发的贡嘎转山）现在进山足够的蔬菜和补给，十一月的贡嘎的美景和六月的同样都非常震撼。此次贡嘎的美景更坚定了以后要重走贡嘎大转山线路。此次贡嘎拍到很多美丽的照片期待你的关注新浪 @丐帮帮主铁丐 老榆林大家在苏导的导演下一路跳起江南style，一群开心的朋友经过这次生死遭遇，大家结成一辈子的朋友，有点絮叨了上片吧左起：铁丐 蜀山李波 阿苏 紫笛依扬 蜀山小龙 高山厨师杨二 老廖 晓风点击只看作者就可以直接看帖子 1.交通方式：成都新南门汽车站到康定135元（车站门口有拉人的100元到康定）康定汽车站包车到老榆林或者让老榆林向导接60元面包车。2.路线行程：老榆林--两岔河--上日乌且--下日乌切--贡嘎寺---子梅垭口--上木居3.客栈与户外店：成都武侯祠有很多户外店可以补充装备，气罐在康定也有买，一般在康定租液化气罐4.装备建议：驮包或70升背包，雨衣，头灯，雪套，羽绒服，登山杖，50以上防晒霜，防水冲锋衣裤，防水袋（做好防水准备）六天食物，建议多带蔬菜。5.向导建议：老榆林多吉大叔长期租马价格比较规矩正常是6天按照9天算（因为有回程）注意事项：1、对于长距离行走，最重要的装备不是别的而是自己的脚。保证脚的完好，不受伤，不打水泡是最为艰巨的挑战也是必须完成的任务。2、食品 需要尽量选取能量密度大、容易处理的食物作为主食，比如米、面。另外新疆当地的各种馕是非常好的户外食品，不但轻便而且便于长期存储。另外，携带一些蔬菜补充维生素也是必须的。 建议携带的食品：（依照个人食量按照预计行程时间计算携带量，并留有一定余量） 主食： 米、面粉、、挂面、压缩饼干 路线全程的营地海拔大约在3700---4200要用高压锅才可以煮熟米面的。当然如果你不放心也可以多带一些熟食或者即食食品。 副食：蔬菜（圆白菜、茭白、番茄、辣椒等）、鸡蛋（走之前把若干鸡蛋打进一个脉动瓶子内，就不用担心鸡蛋在行走过程中磕碰而被打碎了）、榨菜（或者其它各种用于佐餐的小咸菜）、咸鸭蛋（流油的最好）、火腿肠等 蔬菜是非常重要的缓解疲劳的食品，长距离大强度长时间的徒步穿越不仅仅需要热量高体积小的食品，也非常需要碱性食品来平衡身体酸碱以及补充维生素。此外新鲜蔬菜在野外长时间的行程中对士气是极大的鼓舞。（谁也不想连续8天每天都只有压缩饼干）生大蒜：强烈建议携带，是非常有效的杀菌和预防肠胃疾病的食物干果：数量不需要太多，主要用于补充微量元素 另外，必须携带一些体积小便于补充热量的巧克力等，强烈推荐大白兔奶糖。带上一些果珍、奶茶之类在扎营时或者午餐时冲泡饮用会是非常完美的享受。即使是路餐，把馕泡在果珍或者奶茶中也会让人吃的心满意足。3、常用药品 6天5夜的大强度行进，身体上任何小的伤口如不及时处理都有可能造成伤口感染并造成严重后果，因此切不可对任何伤病掉以轻心。 感冒药：行进地区气候极为多变，早晚温差大，容易感冒止痛药、创可贴、防晒霜、消炎药、医用绷带，高反葡萄糖和散利疼其它个人所需的药物 老榆林不讲信誉的向导马扎西本来谈好的价格，中途罢工涨价。大家警惕小心此人美丽的康定：：“跑马溜溜的山上，一朵溜溜的云，端端溜溜的照在朵洛大姐的门，朵洛溜溜的大姐人才溜溜的好哟，会当溜溜的家来会为溜溜的人……”座落在康定宾馆旁的寺庙老榆林向导马扎西，在此做重点介绍相当不靠谱的向导在进山前讲好的价格在向日葵色板官方快到达大本营的时候，有意罢工增加一天费用才给向日葵色板官方的物资送到大本营，一开始说好的出山去接也反悔没来，还是要增加费用。最后在向日葵色板官方从玉龙西的向导（价格比马扎西便宜一半还多）才出山。希望大家注意了---老榆林的马扎西非常熟悉的场景，又一次来到老榆林水电站，上次也是从这里出发，上次路线因为上日乌且雪太深改到盘盘山，这次终于圆梦不光路线走完全程而且见到了最美的贡嘎出发喽，马上一会主人物出现喽 紫笛抑扬： 极限户外玩家♥;攀冰ϖ9;攀岩♥登山b29;滑雪♥;长板b29;旅行♥摄影b29HENIX.ELAN.OSPREY.DMM约运动员知名户外时尚传媒人邓琳，金犀牛奖首届最佳户外摄影获得者，攀冰赛女子冠军，蜀山探险市场总监彭小龙：蜀山探险技术总监彭晓龙，曾获得“2007年度中国户外金犀牛最佳攀登成就奖” 阿苏：把登山当做好玩的人，问他登过几座雪山说不清了，贡嘎一路多次充当我模特在悬崖上,山脊上,才拍到很多好的照片，可惜只是点缀，哈哈哈.苏导的大片视频要在后期才能上。老廖：业余爱好登山者，多次和小龙一起登贡嘎山区雪山本人铁丐：丐行天下云游四海晓风：长期盘守在太行山脉高山厨师杨二日隆镇人，擅长高山做饭和向导老车：观摩团拖着一条残腿观摩攀登蜀山李波：蜀山探险工作人员([]
最新章节： 第521章 易烊千玺 （ 2025-05-05 05:15:57）
更新时间： 2025-05-05 06:07:12
- 第1章 世界最大花朵
- 第2章 斗破苍穹
- 第3章 快船26分惨负灰熊
- 第4章 明星大侦探
- 第5章 伊朗退出伊核协议
- 第6章 大众
- 第7章 两小无猜
- 第8章 脸书被曝新漏洞
- 第9章 皇冠
- 第10章 QQ可显示对方电量订单藏无声呼救
- 第11章 剑王朝
- 第12章 剑王朝
- 第13章 澳山火烟雾至南美
- 第14章 堪培拉浓烟锁城
- 第15章 熊出没
- 第16章 我和我的祖国
- 第17章 帝霸
- 第18章 解放·终局营救
- 第19章 林更新活跃像粉头
- 第20章 看你看我
- 点击查看 中间隐藏的 89987 章节
- 第549章 勇敢者游戏
- 第550章 剑灵
- 第551章 摩拜无门槛免押金
- 第552章 光年之外王者荣耀
- 第553章 迟到11年的奥运奖牌
- 第554章 南方温暖历史罕见
- 第555章 第二次也很美
- 第556章 樱花
- 第557章 起风了
- 第558章 old town road
- 第559章 陈情令
- 第560章 天龙八部下坠Falling
- 第561章 8090
- 第562章 斗罗大陆
- 第563章 存钱存了一半睡着
- 第564章 捷豹
- 第565章 光年之外王者荣耀
- 第566章 完美世界
- 第567章 守望先锋
- 第568章 皇冠
老旺约海鳗新视频在线看
高孟君Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
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李秀泉（作者：零红蝶）注：本帖绝大多数照片来自领队零红蝶，部分来自懒惰的骆驼、哈密斑马、北京老布。谨以此贴，献给第一次去新疆的自己。终于我也站在了曾经魂牵梦萦的那座雪山的前面。记得是去年的端午假期结束以后，偶然在坛子里看到了史版主发的一张雪山前面站着十几个人的照片，虽说雪山也不是第一次见，好片片不会拍但也见过不少，却着实让那张照片震撼了一下，说不上来什么感觉。只是默默决定了一定要去那个地方。当无数人都痴迷于7+2的时候，我依然热衷于我的徒步事业。我喜欢徒步（请允许我为自己的贫穷找个借口O(∩_∩)O~）不是才女果然是亚历山大，虽满怀兴致的想写点什么记录曾经美好的回忆，但敲动键盘的那一刻，却真心不知道该写些什么了。既是随性的人，那就随便写吧。 关于博格达想必大家已经很熟悉，此地仅引用红姨之简介，简单一科普。 在乌鲁木齐，天气晴好时抬头就能看见巍峨于东方的博格达峰。其海拔5445米，坐落在东经88.3度，北纬43.8度，属阜康境内。 在天山的诸多主峰之中，博格达并非最高，其海拔高度也仅能排名第三，然而它的名气却远在诸峰之上。博格达峰长期以来，在西部各民族的心目中，博格达是最富有神性的山峰，它一直被人们视为神灵之宅、紫气之源而加以膜拜。博格达一词就是出自蒙语，“神之居所”之意，一说为“香雪海”之意。 博格达山和它的母体天山一样，是世界上最年轻的山脉之一，它在三亿年前的造山运时于海水中初露头角，及至六七万年前的喜马拉雅造山运动时才脱颖而出。博格达山主峰在天池南侧，其上三峰并立，成“山”字形，中峰略高，海拨5445米，东峰海拨5287米。远望三峰，屹立在一片茫茫雪海之上，就像三个擎天捧日的巨人，英武神勇，让人感慨万千。 博格达以奇为著，以险为绝，三峰昂天挺立，银装素裹，神峻异常。三峰之下更是千峰竞秀，万壑流芳，博格达峰景色迷人。目力所及，遍是原始森林和山甸草原，葱笼青翠，风光如画。登博格达山，最让你赏心悦目的是，能在一日之内可见到四季之景。适逢七八月间，谷底正值盛夏，遍地山花怒放，香气盈野，但多少有点暑气燎人之感；待你登至半山，暑气顿消，便觉春意盎然，遍地绿草如茵，如锦似毯，一切生命都迸发着勃勃微生机；再往上登，就渐感凉意袭人，草地也不似先前翠绿，而开始变得枯黄，给人一种秋天的感觉；及至到了雪线，便觉寒气逼人，举目望去一片银白，雪光刺得你目不忍睁。这雪线附近，按说应是生命的禁区，可是在这里却生长着许多奇异的雪山花卉，如雪莲、野罂粟、翠雀、金莲、金娇、百里香、梅花草等十几种，它们的种子可在零度发芽，幼苗可经受零下30摄氏度的严寒。虽然它们每年仅有两个月的生长期。但它们依然用一生的热情催放出艳丽的花朵，来装点寂寞的雪域，这真可谓生命的奇迹 博格达峰海拔高度虽然并不惊人，但登山难度绝非寻常。在主峰的东西，分别排列着7座5000米以上的高峰。博格达峰山体陡峭，西坡与南坡坡度达70—80度，只有东北坡坡度稍缓，因此，该峰虽然在1980年以前就有英国和前苏联登山队前来攀登，但直到1981年6月9日，才由日本京都队11人开创登顶纪录。博格达峰是由3个峰尖紧依并立而成，终年冰雪皑皑，世称“雪海"。登山大本营建在博格达峰的脚下海拔3580米处，三位香港登山者和日本登山者白水小姐的墓就在这里。以上简介摘自红姨https//bbs.8264.com/forum-viewthread-tid-1643727-extra--authorid-16720203-page-1.html火星大大说，向日葵色板官方穿红色的都站一起，亮瞎你们的眼O(∩_∩)O哈哈~博格达雪山下的精灵们~（作者：零红蝶） 红姨说这是一个经常出大片的地方，骚爹说的对极了，是谁说的拍合照就要站的整整齐齐的呢？(作者：零红蝶） 碎石达坂翻越途中的小憩。虽然大风呼呼滴刮，却一点也不影响臭美的心情。猛犸象、始祖鸟的，各种亮骚。（作者：零红蝶） 下简单达坂处，夏天哥到达简单达坂第一件事就是跟骚爹一起给在另一个世界守护向日葵色板官方的简单带去了问候。“简单，向日葵色板官方来看你了”简单达坂的命名来源于一个叫简单的户外人，因病不幸早逝。希望在另一个世界一切安好---致简单。 如帖子开头所讲，这几年溜溜达达的也走过了一些地方，但是新疆，确确实实是第一次。虽因史版主知道了五峰连穿这条线路，但终应感谢的是一个叫“零红蝶”的神奇领队。关于博格达五峰连穿线路的攻略版，零红蝶在去年已经发过一个非常全面的帖子，此贴不再详述，因为楼主本人基本是个路痴，辨不清方向，弄不明地点的。链接附上，有需要的朋友可以参考零红蝶的帖子。https//bbs.8264.com/forum-viewthread-tid-1643727-extra--authorid-16720203-page-21.html个人认为，一次活动成功与否，领队真的是特别特别的重要。人虽然吊儿郎当，但是选择领队方面我算是比较慎重的了。路痴各种伤不起，坚决要跟对人再走。也提醒其他的户外活动爱好者，户外出行，安全第一。开开心心去，健健康康回。此处非广告，只想把好的领队推荐给大家。零红蝶绝对值得信赖，选择他包你不后悔。自己讲完了有种搞传销的赶脚。零红蝶这个人，想用一个词概括他，简直太难太难了，他所拥有的知识岂是向日葵色板官方想象所能及的.......他从来都是在路上等别人女朋友的......关于零红蝶，还是先看专述吧，如下：【活动领队】： 零红蝶 小羊军团领队培训班GPS讲师 小羊军团认证领队 新疆登协认证领队 新疆山友救援队搜救组组长 国家一级社会体育指导员 新疆志愿者协会成员 新疆红十字会救援队成员 2009年第2届新疆户外产业年会突出贡献奖——最佳线路开拓奖 （双湖-宰尔德回环线路设计及推广） 2014年第3届新疆户外产业年会突出贡献奖——最佳线路开拓奖 （铁湖4040、博格达五峰连穿、博格达大环线等线路设计及推广） 2009-2013连续五年被评为优秀领队。 联系方式：13999931911 探险之地群：154795104【关于行程相关安全问，请参考本人简历】： 领队职责第一条：保证户外活动参与者的安全并实现活动目。 2011年带队创造历史最多人数穿越狼塔C线记录。 2012年带队创造历史最多人数穿越恰西——库尔德宁记录。 2012年带队创造历史最多人数穿越五峰连穿记录。 2013年带队创造历史最多人数穿越车师古道记录。 2013年带队创造历史最多人数穿越乌孙古道记录。 2013年博格达大环线首发完成，开拓新疆第四条超长距离经典线路。 ^@^零红蝶就在端午节博格达五峰32人穿越完成以后，时隔两天又于2014年6月4日，带领39人的大队伍完成了一次腐败的孟克特古道徒步穿越。 零红蝶，绰号：红姨、小红、勺子、零蝴蝶等，以下文字我记得百合丽丽曾经引用过，就是跟虽零红蝶走五峰的另一个才子编撰的，我也忍不住不引用他的话。忒应景。" 坊间记载：零红蝶者，奇人也，脸黑、人瘦，臭屁，喜红衣，好女装，上知天文地理，下懂洗菜煮米，文能识图，武能下厨。携一众疯男癫女，奔走山莽之间，夜宿旷野之下。日行百里不露疲态，帐混数女不越雷池。此君年轻时头顶重发，神似马云，这两年不管脸型还是性格都渐向冯远征的方向一路狂奔去矣。零蝴蝶说，8月博格达五峰连穿，会彻底颠覆你对传统徒步的理解。"以上文字引自猪猡冀二师兄五峰连穿链接：https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1874505-1-1.html 红姨是个巨幽默的人，经常也会很萌，用他的话说，他有一颗年轻的心。他一路经常跟向日葵色板官方讲，别的都好说都好商量，但是在他那里，安全问绝对是没得商量的。如果你被训了，请不要伤心，疼你才会训你哈哈，恨铁不成钢啊。脾气很大，但是非常负责任也很细心。每次走到危险或者难走的路段，都会自己确认安全没问以后才小心翼翼的让向日葵色板官方通过。每次活动走完分别的时候，据说还会抹眼泪呢。dao嘴豆腐心撒。粉丝群跨度大约在5岁-65岁。 一身的大鸟，数钱的时候老开心了呢~ 萌红姨，萌呆了，爽歪歪了啊~ 曾经在一些跟红姨走过的朋友的贴子里会看到有人问怎么找红姨，怎么跟他的队伍，红姨（零红蝶）有一个群，叫做探险之地，对线路有兴趣想跟红姨队伍的朋友可以先加群，做一下了解。探险之地群号：154795104 此次新疆之行，去年端午就定了，本年度所有的活动都在为端午让路，平时都不敢请假的。就在去之前，新疆接二连三的发生了几次影响不太好的事件，好多人都在问我，你怎么还去新疆？也许是我想的比较开，呆在哪里都有不安全的因素，人命天定，强求不得。所以几乎对我没什么影响。悲催的竟然在出发的十几天前把膝盖给摔了。无所不用其极的想办法恢复，差点都忧郁了。大美新疆，膝盖也不管了，走起啊O(∩_∩)O哈哈~领队决定你行程的大方向，队友则是决定你此次行程HAPPY与否的关键因素。记忆会随着时间的流逝慢慢消失，而友谊却是地久天长，历久弥香。此行一起欢乐多的我的小伙伴们闪亮登场喽！（排名不分先后撒）夏天哥，特别能给人踏实感的一个人，睿智，细心，脾气好，厨艺好。钻石级的人物。把自己家做成了咱们驴友去新疆的接待站，给大家提供方便的同时，每次出去给大家拍照拍视频，留下美好的回忆。这次去博格达穿越，愣是带了毛血旺上去的。以下便是夏天哥制作的这次博格达五峰连穿的视频链接。https//v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNzI1MTIwNjI4.html?from=y1.2-1-98.3.2-2.1-1-1-1&qq-pf-to=pcqq.group夏天哥家的驴友录、照片墙。每位跟红姨走的朋友，有缘来到夏天哥家的，都会有一张无敌兔的速拍照留念。这几张片子手机拍摄。 火星，一身骚橘红，领队，超级能背，人很幽默，山东滨州老乡。一路协调照顾队伍，也是个细心的老爷们，只替大家背，替大家做好吃的，自己不吃。有老乡在，此次新疆很暖心。废话不多说，都在心里了。 好人，哈密的大哥，人如其名，非常非常实在非常好。一个人做六个人的饭，红姨的协作。一路跑前结组探路，喜欢喝酒，每次去新疆都住VIP套房，哈哈。偶尔还很冷幽默。 孤月苍狼，又名苍老师，来自阿勒泰的大帅哥，做玉石生意。五峰估计这是第三次走了，博格达大环线第一批队员之一。帮大家拍拍片子协调队伍。带了好多白酒上博格达，跟我们讲，下次要再带多一点^_^。救援队中登协等各种头衔。 不离不弃，山东人，大帅哥。体力好，细心，忠厚，还很浪漫呢。红姨的主力协作，非常务实踏实的小伙子。有不弃收队，红姨很放心。大家都喜欢不弃，可惜前几日一顿饭的功夫，被荨麻草给收了，哈哈!不弃啊，别拍了，再拍媳妇木有了......... 懒惰的骆驼，广州人，大金链子，大手钏子，进口海鲜的代言人。活动前几天，说走就飞到了乌鲁木齐。潇洒哥啊。红姨的协作之一，差点把半个超市背上博格达。很好的哥们。孟克特出山后发微信，连着十几条据说把手机发崩溃了。打伞走博格达的艺术家~ 找北，在新疆的广州人，大帅哥啊，人很好，心细会照顾人，特别不抗冻，性子不紧不慢的。还记得不好意思混饭的时候找北哥跟夏天哥说小培过来一起吃吧。北哥记得下次多穿点啊哈哈！又一个打伞走博格达的青年 飞扬夜猫，广西人，每年几次长线，走过C+V线，超级低调。低调到差点都连他会做饭都不知道。走完五峰又连走了孟克特古道穿越。体力罡罡的。 二月，哈密姑娘，要知道博格达那么厉害的紫外线下能看到个大白脸是有多么的不容易，大家都包的像阿富汗妇女。大美女，漂亮照片太多，一路没有多少机会一起走，等下次哈！ 拖鞋妹，20岁，小美女，体力很棒，走的很快，曾经在前队结组先行，能喝酒，厨艺很棒。 蓝城，东北人，为了媳妇不久前去了新疆，细心，疼老婆啊，天天那个电话打得啊。烧烤手艺一流，帮助照顾队伍很是辛苦。胆大心细的帅老爷们，好哥们！ 千寻，88年的小姑娘，红姨的美女协作，体力很棒可以背75的大包，走的还特快。镜头感很强的美美的拍了一路。她一路都在采访向日葵色板官方外地人怎么想到去新疆的。未解之谜。 天空&无言无语绿色衣服的天空姐，感觉有点内向，临时决定走五峰，走的一点也不慢喔。白色上衣的无言无语，老好玩了，花椒、大蒜、火腿、等等带了一大堆东西，都下山了还没吃完。幽默又随和的福建姑娘，喜欢！ 毛头，哈密人，穿的也很亮骚啊，据说以前体力实在一般，自从跟了红姨走了几次，都混成协作了，这次不仅结组先行，还连穿了孟克特古道，月底还要环博格达转山。我勒个去，哥，走劈叉了以后这么快蜕变的秘诀是啥子呢？ 昨日重现，细心，沉稳，的大厨。不知道该用低调还是闷骚来形容这哥们。柴米油盐酱醋的全都带上了，还自己做了美味的臊子带去了山上。此行很感谢的哥们。 光头强&北地想想男的光头强，传奇人物啊，第一次跟着大树五河，据说把最后实在走不动了把睡袋冲锋衣全扔了。这次表现非常棒，明显上瘾的节奏。新买的睡袋貌似不便宜，这次没有扔。女生北地想想，想想是此次新疆行唯一一个见过的好朋友。一起走过南太行，淡定，低调，有才，细心，厨艺了得。走的巨快，连红姨都怕想想跟着他。几乎走过各种线路。很棒的姑娘。 比较烦，人如其名，貌似很多烦心事。当大家围坐一起吹牛扯蛋蛋的时候，总是自己坐一边沉思。出山下绝望坡以后，河滩边大家午饭时间，当大家奶茶咖啡大蒜肠的时候，他却只干了一件事，刷牙洗白白~忙的不亦乐乎。 荨麻草，温柔、美丽、大方、坚强、幸福的小女人。于前几日成功将香饽饽不离不弃收入囊中。小两口一路羡煞旁人~ 斑马，哈密人，跟他一比我就是非洲来的。热心给大家拍照片，性格很好的小伙子，貌似第一次走长线啊，表现不错。帅帅的！
跟雏子一起做运动网页在线玩网页版
李雅绿KKKKKKKKKKK关于食物 装备总重在200斤左右，包含车子本身。其中食物总计100斤左右，分列如下。 主食：糌粑50斤（丢弃一斤），压缩饼干25斤。 辅食：大蒜4.5斤（腐烂半斤），酥油4斤，花生米4斤，盐2斤，麦片2斤（丢弃一斤），紫菜1.5斤，辣椒粉1.5斤，奶粉1斤，白糖1斤，茶叶1斤，巧克力0.5斤，虾皮0.5斤，调料包0.5斤。 食物以糌粑和压缩饼干为主，零食可忽略不计。在羌塘大体力环境下，每日摄取热量至少应在5000大卡，显然食物携带量要达到这一指是不可能的。上世纪早期以斯文赫定为代表的西方人首次触及这片神秘疆域，虽然他们带了大批活羊鸡什么的，但捕猎还是非常重要的补给手段，那时野生动物太多了，也没有现在的动物保护观念。能坚持就不要打动物的主意，再则一个人在没有机动装备情况下猎杀动物是非常难的，没有想的那么浪漫。言归正传，本次旅行每天摄取食物热量有如下四个阶段。 一、克制期，前45天里每天摄取热量在1400大卡左右，大致4两糌粑和2.5两压缩饼干，一些汤料为辅。摄取热量属于中度饥俄状态，下午四点以后基本就无力了。此阶段食物控制的极为严格，以至于45天里消耗的主食才30斤（另有三天意外补给，后文详述）。 二、提升期，由于前期食物控制非常成功，所以总行程过3/5，食物却消耗2/5，因此每日口粮提升至5两糌粑和3.75两压缩饼干。但仅一周后，食物就完全失控了。 三、失控期，从第52天开始，食物完全失控，原因既有生理上的需求，也有精神上的欲望，每天夜不能寐，脑海中总是一幅山珍海味的蜃景。控制力低下时，干吃糌粑粉都能吃掉半斤，如零食般。 四、超控期，第64天开始至74天遇人救助，每天食物热量摄取不足800大卡，少于身体基本代谢量。 从食物种类上可以看出，为了控制负重，食物以热量转换效率高的碳水化合物为主。零食基本没有，花生米都觉得不该带，因为后期会控制不住，花生米会被当做美食很快消耗掉。全程无肉，吃过一次蔬菜，微量元素靠金施尔康。没有动物脂肪的缺点是，抗寒力和身体耐力会下降，例如生活在北极圈的爱斯基摩人，不吃肉是没法长久活下去的。 水，始终是个大问，期间断水多次。后期虽雨季水多，河系泛滥，但水质多混杂不堪，时而无奈。纵观全程，饮用清洁地表水的天数约占20%，融雪和矿水（包括轻度盐碱水、泥沙水等）各占40%。可见若无雪则命不保，当然轻度盐碱水喝多了麻烦是非常大的， 我仔细查看了杨同志的关于食物的帖子，对吃的食物做了以下计算：前45天消耗糌粑18斤压缩饼干12.5斤，45-52天消耗糌粑3.5斤压缩饼干2.6斤，64-74天每天摄取800大卡《糌粑每千克热量为3390》合消耗2.4斤糌粑，那么第52-64天的食物应该是糌粑50-18-3.5-2.4=26.1斤和压缩饼干25-12.5-2.6=9.9斤，这一段时间每天的消耗为糌粑2.1斤和0.82斤压缩饼干，我没有吃过糌粑，不知道一个人一天能否吃得下？ 同时也请告知 穿越出来后体重下降多少好计算脂肪代谢产生的能量。 关于汽油的消耗：总共只带8.6升，平均每天仅有0.115升，93号汽油的热值是48MJ每KG，看那边水温不会高于10度，气压低沸点低些，化雪时消耗更多热量，有时还取暖，而且小杨同志有喝茶的习惯，这点汽油够每天用吗？ 注意看完第二页再回帖 关于托包问：看到小杨同志带了2个后驮包，2个前驮包，车把上也有一个包，后货架还有一个，我想知道这些包容积分别有多大，物品是怎样分装的，好让我仔细计算各种物品能否装进包里，虽然通过照片也基本上能判断各个包的体积，但有具体数据会更好。 另外从下面照片中可以看出车子有明显的不同，如三脚架下瓶子及捆绑绳不同，后货架绑带不同，多了把铲子，大撑不见了《帖子中得知是你拆的》等，容易让人怀疑是不是同一辆车。 关于轮胎问：看帖得知中途没有换过轮胎，可仔细对比前后期轮胎照片，感觉轮胎花纹有些不同，不知道是不是轮胎磨损造成的。如果轮胎花纹确实不同，而没有科学的解释，那么就说明很多问了，这一点非常重要。还有车和包有时很脏有时很干净，难道中途洗了几次装备吗？最后大家对比中图和上楼图中的前轮托架，看他们的构造是否相同，前车前托架有2根横梁连接到避震杆上，后车只有一根横梁连接，这真是同一辆车吗？本人才疏学浅，希望各学科的馿友从各自专业的角度参与分析，给小杨同志一个肯定。看到N多回复感觉不爽！大家的心理我都明白，假如有一天有人证实这次穿越掺了水分，你们又该做何感想！“逆流之河”77天穿越曾深深的震撼了我！同为“独行馿”很难想象他是怎么完成如此艰难的穿越，可如今留给我的是深深的失望，我相信你到了里面，而且不止一次进入，就算你带了后援，或者分几段完成穿越，你还是受人尊敬的，可你不该编出一个“独自77天穿越”的故事来骗大家，也许你有你的苦衷，也许是为了那该死的名利。。。。。。你欠大家一个道歉！勇敢的站出来吧！其实大家就是不愿意相信有假，多仔细看看后面那辆车确实跟前面不是同样的，明摆着的事！一味的崇拜！对我用最恶毒的语言也无法掩盖事实的真相！只能说明你们更可悲！ 又发现新证据，大家仔细看图中的防潮垫，数一数上面的凹凸花纹，这是2张不同的防潮垫！经再次查看，这个证据站不住脚，失误了。 很晚了！休息了昨晚失误了，今天继续找证据，真的假不了，假的真不了，不着急。 63天前货架是好的64天前货架是好的67天帖子中原文： 还是坚持着，推了三百多米，猛然把车一摞，骂了句，还真以为我是玩杂技的啊！然后回头去找拆散的车架。把车拼好，能拆的零件都拆掉，剩链条搞不掂，又回头找拆炼器，第一次用，兴奋，以为很精密很技术，很快捷的把链条拆了。这时又发现，后货架一侧断了，其实也没什么大不了的了。6MM钢筋，在螺丝间都加了橡胶垫片，避免硬连接的金属疲劳，极端的环境下还是不行。前货架也是用6MM钢筋焊接的，除了绣，一切都好，负重不多了，驮包置前，轻物置后，够用了。 今天，是自行车的崩溃之日，最具崩溃代表性的不是轮胎或钢货架，而是脚撑。很有故事，道来。因为去年羌塘之行深刻意识到拍照很辛苦，原因之一就是要把自行车放倒、再扶起，看似简单，却极耗体力精力，流失很多拍照机会。一般的单脚撑基本上瞬间弯，钢制的无法保持大负重的自行车平衡，所以特地寻了一款类似摩托车的双叉中架脚撑，试验很不错，可羌塘实际地貌是不适合的，地太软，脚撑难以平衡，所以一次未用，但又拆不下来，（由于其固定结构很顽固，又没带匹配大扳手，尝试无数次无用）。每每看着这脚撑，觉得委屈，两斤多重的无用货，早知换成备用鞋。也是在今天，奇迹发生，脚撑松动，两端螺丝用手就拎开了，终于卸了这负担。 晚上又失眠，除了想吃的流口水外，还想着脚撑的重量可以换些什么好吃的带。 原文第一段最后一句说前货架一切都好，第二段第一句说最具崩溃性的不是轮胎或货架，而是脚撑。下图已经明白证实前货架有一边中间梁没有了。现在可以肯定前左货架坏了吧！ 73天照片显示货架却是好的，怎么说法，难道带了电焊机吗？关于我的私人情况吗？以后大家就会明白我是个什么样的人，一些与我有过节的人故意断章取意趁机攻击我，我坦然面对。。。。。。我现在没有精力理那般小人。 去山里转了2天出来，没有上网，今天继续找证据，刚才从藏羚羊群的图片看出点端倪，可是帖子已经用文字把漏洞封了，在很多有漏洞的地方，帖子总能用文字修补。。。要找到更多的证据恐怕需要花更多的时间。不过通过搜索知道有很多科学考察队和其他人员进入过里面，相信会有解开谜底的那一天，我会继续努力寻找证据，绝不会中途停止。看你们这些可怜的人！人肉我又如何，没有办法推翻我的观点只能采取这种下三滥的手段，人肉也不详细些，我是买不起装备的人吗？我是没受过高等教育的人吗？特别要鄙视那些桂林本地的混帐东西，就因为我来自阳朔乡下，创建了桂林先行者户外AA群，抢了你们的饭碗，盖过了你们的风头，你们就想方设法搞臭我，你们能办到吗？向日葵色板官方桂林先行者户外群为什么能不断状大，能健康成长，我为什么能受到群友的爱戴，为什么你们不想想原因呢？你们不是很会人肉吗！为什么搜不到我上周末的行踪呢？难道你们瞎了眼看不到桂林先行者几十人的队伍行走在香花岭古道吗？([]
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李佩芳蓦然回首，从伦敦回国已经一年多的时间，12月的上海，日渐变的冷了下来。突然回想起一年前这个时候刚骑着单车去俄罗斯领事馆申请证被冻得冷兮兮的时候。努力了四个月只拿到了哈萨克，俄罗斯，和申根证，于是就踩着单车上路，由上海到伦敦。哈萨克的荒凉，俄罗斯的寒冷，拉脱维亚的刹那春光，立陶宛的童话，波兰的狂暴，德国的严谨，阿姆斯特丹的红灯区，布鲁塞尔帮我带路的印度人，巴黎街头的卖唱艺人，以及伦敦的暮霭，在脑海里一遍一遍的过滤着。索性翻出去那时的照片，贴在这里，也算是对自己那段疯狂日子的一种祭奠。2011年3月5日,我由上海理工大学毛主席像前面出发,前来送我的学弟学妹们.这个时候我已经准备了近半年的时间,手里拿着三张证,哈萨克斯坦,俄罗斯,申根.各位童鞋，因为最近新书刚出版，一些事情需要处理，所以更新的不及时，还望大家谅解。如果有着急的童鞋可以关注我的sina博客“驭风者郑盛”里面有之前我在路上每天的记录，当然如果大家能关注我的新书《我的青春在路上》就更好了，我将一路的经历，各国证以及一路的见闻及心理路程详细的记录在里面。当当，亚马逊，京东，淘宝均有销售，百度百科也有介绍，当然我也会继续在8264分享我接下来的旅程，谢谢关注了～～为什么只有三张证，其实是占了一个小便宜，申根证包括25个国家，所以，我一个申根证可以从拉脱维亚一直到法国，这也是当时有了骑车去伦敦的想法之后对着地图冥思苦想好几天才设计的路线，中国，哈萨克斯坦，俄罗斯，拉脱维亚，立陶宛，波兰，德国，荷兰，比利时，法国，英国。英国的证之所以放到法国办理，一是在国内已经没有那么多时间去申请证，第二是我也吃不准路上需要多长时间，不好吧时间限制死。为什么有这个想法？我也说不好，就是一种冲动，毕业了，总有一种回到大学里的冲动，总觉得自己的大学还没过完，总觉得还需要一点什么去做一个总结。2010年的9月，上海十分的燥热，坐在办公室里，看着9月17日日历，上海理工大学开学的日子，越想越闷，四年的汗水，四年的欢声笑语，四年的喜怒哀乐，四年的青春就这样戛然而止，似乎并没有一个完美的句号。以后就只能每天朝九晚五的上班，送货，销售，加薪，培训。回家的路上，坐在地铁的角落，我开始认真的思考起来，想起我要骑车走全国，骑车去尼泊尔的梦想，然而越想越觉得堵得慌，似乎被鱼刺卡了喉咙，吐不出来，也咽不下去，难道我的青春就这样草草结束了吗？我想起了骑车去走全国的日子，或许，我需要对自己的青春做一个总结，需要一个句号。但是去过西藏，中国基本没什么挑战了，于是就选择了欧亚大陆，上海到伦敦，作为我的毕业旅行，也是我22岁时的纪念。有了这个想法之后，我就去和捷安特上海的俱乐部取得了联系，经过了几个月的努力，上海的沈总决定，赞助我自行车和自行车相关的全部零件，满满的一个大箱子，让我更加有了在路上的信心。很多人好奇我怎么能拿到证，这个我也不懂，第一次出国，可能更多的是基于一个单纯的想法，老外比较支持个人探险，我去过西藏，应该会得到他们的支持，于是我就把自己的骑车的照片，路书，以及媒体的报道，拿到使馆，幸运的是经过了几个月的折腾，竟然也拿到了。为了让大使馆更好的了解我，我把大学获得十几张证书都一并交了上去，献血证说明我是安全的，志愿者证书说明我是一个乐于奉献的大学生，急救培训证书说明我能适应这一路的自救第一张图是我带的药品，几乎能想到的药品都带上了，感冒发烧拉肚子常见的病，还有牙痛胃痛等不常见的病，药都备齐了。第二张图是马先生和他的同事，得知我有了这个计划之后，他赞助了我不少零件。第三张则是出发前的时候，剃了一个光头，削发明志，霸气外露。2011年3月5日，我带着52KG的装备，开始我正式的欧亚大陆的行走。出发地点是上海理工大学的毛主席像，很多来送我的学弟学妹。当天下午到了南通，搭船过了此行路上的第一条江，长江。苏北的早晨，安静而又美好！走在苏北的平原上，农村的高音喇叭真是给力，一路上好汉歌听的我热血澎湃，然后就是村书记操着苏北普通话：下面有个通知...后面就不知道说啥了宿迁的烧饼真好吃！路过京杭大运河，不禁感慨，隋炀帝的暴政竟造福了后人，是非公过，如何评说呢？3月9日 1150 来自短信 徐州城东50公里处，突然车头一沉，不受控制，一看，暴胎了，难道刘邦知道我崇拜项羽？和我同行的有个胖子，他陪我走到了兰州。补胎神马是最痛苦了，重重的装备要全部卸下来。。。呼啸而过的卡车，给向日葵色板官方造成不小的压力过了郑州，几乎全是面食，对于来自南方的向日葵色板官方来说，每次吃饭就成了一次煎熬。所幸的是四川人遍布全国，偶尔路过城市，可以去吃点米饭。有一些小地方依稀残留着老的东西过了三门峡，就进入了陕西境内，偶遇黄河。明媚的阳光，让我忍不住开始拉着嗓门吼几声。陕西农村的大玉米，搞的很像香蕉树宝鸡的宝莲灯原以为3月份中国的春天会春光明媚，谁知进了秦岭开始一路暴雪。万里冰封我算是见识到什么是滴水成冰了，早晨出门带的水，不到中午就结成冰了，零下五度，变速进水冻住，水壶里全是冰疙瘩，车座子钢管收缩了活动，八公里的下坡停了两次，多几个隧道吧，隧道里暖和！从春天走到冬天，早知道山下带几个西瓜上来吃冰西瓜，哈哈过了兰州，胖子就急匆匆坐飞机回去了。他的离开对我来说是一个很大的打击，本来他至少要陪我到哈萨克斯坦，但是由于他老妈突然要做手术，所以不得不临时放弃。确实，在现实面前，梦想很脆弱，这也让我重新认识这个问。藏族聚居地天祝出来的公路，这一天发飙，一路狂奔，天祝到古浪到武威到永昌，一天235km,三个县城,一个市.黄土高原的天空和西藏的天空一样的蓝.过了张掖,在高台县受到了田翔的招待.住在他的村官宿舍里,就着辣子吃着土豆会肉,是这一生难以忘怀的美味.山丹县明长城的遗址.黄土高原也有雪山的.田翔的舍友,来自云南的村官.过了武威,就进了沙漠和盐碱地,也是传说中的丝绸之路.第一次见到盐是怎么生产出来的,沙漠中的盐碱地里,几个工人将雪花一样的盐矿扫到一起,然后送到旁边的化工厂进行提炼.远远看去,白盐上面升起袅袅烟雾,如同海市蜃楼.神奇的是,盐矿附近竟然还能生长茅草.走在酒泉的沙漠里,因为靠近卫星发射基地,所以最大的乐趣就是数飞机.天下第一雄关,嘉峪关.可惜门票太贵了,门口看了看就离开了/走丝绸之路,最重要的事情就是食物,好的是当地随处可以买到便宜的馍馍,5毛钱两个,榨菜是5毛钱一包,一次买上十几个,可以吃两天.出了嘉峪关,我就不在老老实实的走国道,将自行车扛上了G30,因为这边的国道实在是破烂的可怜.不过,过了瓜州,G30没了,还是接着走312,进入天山进入天山地界,人烟稀少,找不到住的地方,所幸路边有修路队,就进去借宿了一个晚上,也在这里过了我23岁的生日.老妈还打电话过来让我吃好点,呵呵,她还不知道我在天山脚下吹沙子呢.收留我住一晚上的修路工人.来自黑龙江的老大哥.新疆的风,不说什么了,我迎风仍了一个易拉罐,在落地之前,飞到我身后30米,在公路上骑车,活生生的将我从路上扯下来,据说当年吹翻过火车,我还是幸运的,慢慢推还可以走,没有被吹回上海.进了新疆,找睡觉的地方比在生孩子都难,至少生孩子是肚里有货,这里旅馆却是真没有,只好借宿加油站的锅炉房.维族打馕人.到了新疆最大的感触是,这里的民风不错,没有想象中的恐怖,走在乡间小道上,偶遇一个带着小花帽的维族大爷,笑眯眯的给你打个招呼,感觉很是舒服.进疆之前的忐忑也缓解不少.4月7日，克拉玛依。大学朋友白老大，特意将线路改道巴克图出境，就是想来看看他。走在沙漠里，数飞机的感觉是蛮舒服的。霍吉尔特蒙姑乡，放牧的蒙古人。新疆的地名，让我开始相思啊，哈哈戈壁滩塔城，周叔叔，大学朋友的爸爸巴克图出境时候，准备的馕，不过只够吃两天。。。第一次见到其他国家的货币来送我出国的周叔叔刚进入哈萨克的第一个路牌哈萨克的第一个县城公路边的草可以盖住一头头黄牛，让我不禁开始担心起来，这里面是否藏的有狼？哈萨克的路牌还好有一排英文和一排俄文，我可以看懂英文，找路不是问了，第一天晚上没有找到睡觉的地方，因为看不懂哈萨克语和俄语，不知道哪里是旅馆，好的是，一个在这边做生意的新疆人收留了我，睡在他们家的地毯上。新疆人的商店第二天的旅程没有想象中的那么轻松，路边都是乌鸦的窝，嘎嘎叫的心烦这是哈萨克的高速公路，我一个人，踩着单车赶路，偶尔呼啸而过的破车，荡起滚滚黄烟从新疆老乡家里出来，便开始一个人走上这条公路，传说中的哈萨克高速公路，比中国的村村通还烂。一个人，一部单车，后面几头牛在那里当路人甲。去阿拉木图和阿亚谷子的分叉路，还好路牌是英文的，基本上可以看懂。([]
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李佑郁链接： D1~D6 黔南：荔波，茂兰，小七孔，怎雷水族村寨 D7~D9 黔东南：高排苗寨 D10-~D11 黔东南：车江侗寨，大利侗寨 D12~D13 黔东南：朗德上寨，雷山县，乌东寨 D13~D17 黔东南：西江苗寨，鼓藏节，雷山苗年游行，新桥苗寨，陶尧斗牛 D18~D19 黔东南：镇远 D20~D21 黔东南：三门塘侗寨，隆里古城 D22-D23 黔东南：地扪侗寨，黎平天生桥，翘街 D25-D27 黔东南：肇兴，八寨一山，堂安 D28-D29 黔东南：岜沙苗寨，黄岗侗寨 D29-D30 黔南：都匀，天落水 D31 贵阳：花溪公园 D31 贵阳：青岩古镇黔西南 D32 黔西南：安顺屯堡 D32 黔西南：本寨屯堡 D32 黔西南：云山屯 D33 黔西南：格凸河D34黔西南：格凸河——中洞线路D34黔西南：中洞苗寨D35黔西南：中洞-望谟D36黔西南：安龙D37黔西南：兴义马岭河峡谷D38黔西南：兴义万峰林D39-40黔西南：花江峡谷 悬索公路桥D41： 织金洞D42：贵阳D43：贵阳黔灵山…… 几乎没有过渡的，列车穿过几个隧道后，窗外的风景就从满眼青山直接跳转到满眼房子。守着贵州群山之中珍贵的几块平坝子的贵阳，正像一群快速繁殖的菌落，极尽所能的把建筑安插到山间平地上的每一处缝隙。 跟中国所有城市火车站一样，贵阳火车站站前人头攒动。快速通过鱼龙混杂的广场，挤公交，到长途汽车站，买票，转身登上去往荔波的车……一路都没停下。甚至在公交车上都因为是站着，没能瞅一眼窗外的街市长什么样，只看见了堵了一路的汽车。在我的计划中，贵阳排在行程的末尾，作为旅途最后的休闲游。现在它只是一个中转站。 开往荔波的车程中，富有喀斯特地貌特点的尖头山峰在云雾中若隐若现。路边偶尔闪过几块路牌：凯里，都匀，三都，榕江……这些地方在数日后将是我的目的地。 车载音响一直放着连我这样大俗的人都受不了的大俗网络歌曲，尽管我努力想靠看风景和睡觉来“选择性失聪”，但那神作般的歌词和曲调还是顽强的灌进耳膜，胁迫我感受着男猪女猪的撕心裂肺死去活来。终于，一阵熟悉的旋律响起--《爱情买卖》！曾经不屑一顾的神曲此刻听起来如此亲切。 音乐承载记忆。在熟悉的音乐中，记忆自动回放，心中的忧郁小情怀便泛滥开来……去年今日，我也许正缩在办公室电脑前，耳机里放着随机播放的爱情买卖，屏幕上一个窗口CAD一个窗口浏览器，鼠箭头指着最小化，以防领导随时来袭……此时此刻，我眼前是前排椅背上的“XX医院专治男科”，旁边座位上是一位打瞌睡的老伯，随着车身的摇晃时不时把脑壳靠到我肩上…… 带点孩子气的离开看似的安稳，转而上路去寻找可能只是虚空的所谓理想。下一次听爱情买卖时，我会在做什么，找到自己想要的了吗？还是又重新回到电脑前画着一道道线偷着看网页…… 纠结的我，沿着纠结的我制定的纠结的路线，开始了在贵州的纠结旅行。 只是想试试。 行程：荔波县-茂兰-怎雷水族寨-高排苗寨-榕江县-车江侗寨-大利侗寨-雷山县-乌东寨-西江苗寨-雷山鼓藏节-镇远-三门塘侗寨-锦屏县-隆里古城-地扪侗寨-黎平县-肇兴-从江-岜沙苗寨-黄岗侗寨-都匀-贵阳花溪-青岩古镇-安顺-天龙屯堡-云峰八寨-紫云格凸河-中洞苗寨-望谟县-安龙县-兴义-花江峡谷-北盘江峡谷-关岭-织金洞-贵阳第一站：黔南，荔波tips：交通：公路，贵阳金阳客运站有到荔波的班车，车程约4小时；坐火车要到荔波西边的麻尾站下，从麻尾到荔波途中就可顺路去大小七孔。住：因为旅游的兴起，县城里各种档次的酒店旅馆都有，不难找。我住的是出车站左拐100米左右的茂兰宾馆，间一百，房间很大，还有一台自动麻将桌。前台可以问询前往茂兰保护区旅游的事宜。吃：车站外马路对面桥头的步行街晚上有夜排档，往里走到榕树脚周边也有几家餐馆。另外在县城点的广场边上有条餐饮街，有烤鱼，杨梅汤。玩：茂兰，车站有很多发往茂兰方向的车，从永康方向进入，车程约1小时到景区大门的尧古村。村中有住宿客栈。保护区很大，景区开发的几个景点之间距离都很远，不想走路的话可以包面包车或摩托车。走路的话一天时间足够从尧古边走边玩到五眼桥住宿，一路上都有村庄人家，主要路口有指示牌，不用担心迷路。尧古-洞塘-五眼桥一线主要景点：石上森林，布依村寨，尧所古桥，水上森林，青龙潭青龙瀑，九洞天穿洞群，原始森林……建议用两到三天慢慢感受喀斯特峰丛的魅力。回程可就近从五眼桥附近的巴克检查站搭过路车回荔波县城。小七孔，荔波车站坐车，20分钟一班，金杯面包车居多。中间回会经过大七孔景区。小七孔景区里就没什么好说的了，坐景区观光车来往于各个景点。 D12011年10月26日午后到荔波，没出车站，直接买票去茂兰保护区。趁等车的空隙在候车厅边上的粉店要了碗米粉。第一次吃这种扁宽形状的粉略感新鲜，哪想后来这种米粉伴随了我大半个旅程，吃的都要吐了。到茂兰保护区大门口的尧古村只要半个多小时车程，下车前班车师傅热心的为我指点了路边的一处农家客店。进堂屋大门，两位坐在小凳上聊天的老阿婆停下来，转头疑惑的望向我。“老人家，你们这里可以住宿的撒？”我自以为用四川话就可以走遍贵州，还能增添一些亲切感。两位老人冲我呵呵笑了，但显然没有听明白。慢慢用普通话又复述了一遍后，一位老人用方言向屋里喊了几句，另一位戴着老花镜的阿婆循声从里屋走出来，“#@%*…住宿啊#￥%……”其他没听懂，好歹听见了关键词，看样子应该是她家的店了。去楼上客房住下，这里客房很多，只是因为淡季，空荡荡的楼层里就只有我一个人住。 尧古是个布依族的小村子，沿路修的新房就跟广大中国农村的房子一样，方方正正没有表情的方盒子。远离公路的一侧，几十栋破旧的干栏式木房错落着挤在一起，两口水塘映出它们苍老的面孔。天气阴冷，飘着毛毛雨，村中的小巷里都见不着人，只有从隔音不好的木房里透出的电视声锅碗瓢盆声说明生活还在继续。 对于大部分游客观光者来说，“屋没有不破的，墙没有不斜的，人没有不老的”的景象可能是个不错的摄影材，可在世代在此居住生活的村民眼里，这些破旧意味着生活的穷困。他们很不解：“大城市这么好，这里这些破房子有什么看头？”贵州常见的阴阴天加上灰暗的老木楼，让拍出来的照片都是一片灰调子 雨下大了，索性回屋去找那三位阿婆聊天，虽然能听懂的不多。阿婆们正在做手工，用当地的土布缝被单。碰巧停电，她们搬着小板凳坐到大门前，借着天光，在布上缝出一道道褶皱来拼成各种花纹图案。“做这个很麻烦呢#￥&*@…要做大半年呢#！￥…缝完还要染色呢%￥…现在年轻人都不愿做了呢……”阿婆热情的向我介绍着，我吃力听着报以微笑。屋外，小雨淅沥沥的背景音中，除了偶尔的鸡鸣狗吠再也没有其他声音。屋里，三位老人的话因为我这个难得的倾听者变得多了起来，尽管大部分情形是：她们说话，我听不懂，呵呵笑着换下一个话；我说话，她们听不懂，笑笑，转下一个话……一个下午就这么过去，不用考虑时间不用着急行程，让光阴在谈笑间悠然划过……一阵嘈杂声及时打断了我又要泛滥的小情怀。来电了，阿婆的孙子放学回家迫不及待的打开电视，奥特曼与美少女战士混搭出来的粗劣动画片正激情上演。阿婆一边收拾东西一边招呼我过去，用手指指嘴。哈哈，这个我懂——“吃饭去！” D2 2011年10月27日下午四点半，轻装走完青龙潭，在溪边坐着休息。看着茂密的树幽蓝的水听着轰鸣的瀑流清脆的鸟鸣，人仿佛被大自然纯净的气场包裹着，普通青年瞬间就变文艺青年了，想写点什么的心情自然而然涌上来。独坐溪旁，回忆整理…… 早晨出门，雨还下着，经过茂兰保护区大门，工作人员都还没上班。看着那块着票价的牌子，一边默念“其实我不想逃票”，一边加快脚步进入景区，沿公路前行。果真是淡季么，一路上人影都难碰见一个，连那些在大地上像波浪般大起大落的喀斯特峰丛们都把头埋进云层里打瞌睡，只留个半身给我看，却也显出些灵秀的姿色。雨下的不小，撑开伞直接架到头和背包之间，心中还飘出些许雨中漫步的小情趣。随着鞋子、裤子、上衣的逐一潮湿，浪漫转化为对这鬼天气的抱怨，加快脚步，祈祷早点找到户人家避避雨。在一个叫董歹的路边小村走进一间小卖店躲雨，男老板不仅搬出凳子，还邀请我与他共进早餐。人家这么热情我也不好意思干坐着，顺手买了包一块钱的饼干还个人情。一口饼干下去，口感奇异，就像屋外潮湿的天气。雨小了，继续上路。公路沿着峰丛中的洼地低谷绕行，串起被群山隔出来的一个个山间平坝。在“平地如金”的喀斯特山区，只要是稍微平坦一点的谷地，都会被开辟成一块块田地，如彩色的拼图镶嵌在挺拔的山峰之间。有田就会有村庄，每穿过一段山林，眼前还被树枝灌木遮挡时，耳朵里就已经听的到回荡山间的鸡鸣狗吠，提醒我前方又将与一座世外桃源不期而遇。人和自然，一个耕种平地一个守护山峰，一个收获粮食一个带来苍翠和清新。清秀如黛的山水正是人与自然共生共荣的最好证明。中午，正走的双肩酸痛膝盖发软，一辆面包车停到我面前，一位广东风味的老伯从副驾驶探出头：“朋友，去哪里……”“就去前面五眼桥，搭个顺风车行不？”“欢迎欢迎……”欢迎？这是什么说法。上车落座，发现后排坐了四五位抱着长枪短炮的老伯。“呵呵，你们拍照哇？”我无话找话。前排招呼我上车的老伯转过头来：“小伙子一个人出来啊，厉害厉害。”第一句话听得我很荡漾。“小伙子我和司机商量了下，就收你二十元车费吧……”呃，看来我和他们对“搭车”这个词汇的理解有分歧，二十块的车费也是赤裸裸鄙视我狂走一上午的劳动成果。找了个“想下车拍照”的理由，果断下车，继续虐待肩膀膝盖。话说回来，在车上看风景也就是一闪而过，只有行走其中，才能慢慢品味风景的美嘛……花了两个小时到五眼桥，寻个农家乐放下包，去附近的青龙瀑走走。沿着溪谷边的石板路向下游走，一路藤蔓交错怪石嶙峋。雨后的一切很是清新，石头上附生的苔藓翠绿可人，恨不得拽一把回去炒个菜吃。空气也有一股湿润的味道，假想着漂浮的一个个大大的“O2”“O2”被吸进肺里就顿觉畅快。景点里没有一个人，我算是包场游。一路拍照一路闹走到青龙瀑布，瀑布巨大的轰鸣声马上掩盖住了我的叫声。河水在陡崖上汇聚成汹涌的激流，一头扎入十米之下的一潭碧水中，水雾四散。瀑布下这拥有迷人的天蓝色湖水的深潭就是青龙潭，要是夏天到此，想必没有多少人能抵挡住湖水的诱惑而纵身跃入吧。D3 2011年10月28日雨雨雨……早晨起床看窗外都没下雨，马上要出门上山了就又下起来了。幸好今天主打洞内项目，影响不大。今天要去的黑洞神仙洞九连天三个溶洞彼此相隔很近，都分布在半山腰上。溶洞规模都不大，也有些破坏，但对初识溶洞的我来说，第一次钻进黑乎乎的地下世界是很新鲜的体验，而且这几个未经灯光修饰，保留着一些原始和神秘的洞穴也增添了探洞的刺激，每当头灯的光线照亮那些黑暗中奇形怪状的石笋，石钟乳，石幔时，都能体会到发现的乐趣……这里的洞穴沉积物虽然比不上著名溶洞景观，却也算为我上了一堂洞穴入门课。下午，坐车回到荔波县城。雨停了，天空虽然还遍布黑云，但雨后的透彻让人能清晰的望见环绕耸立在县城四围的群山；樟江绕城而过，平静的水面倒映着这座江边小城的休闲气质。傍晚，夜市兴盛，烤鱼、火锅的香味轮番勾引着食欲。可惜独身一人吃锅火锅未免太过奢侈，只能还走进车站旁边那家粉店，抱碗米粉暗自神伤。洗洗睡吧……D42011年10月29日小七孔离荔波县城不远，但小七孔景区的票价却离这大山腹地好远。在中国要分辨一座景区是不是世界遗产地，单从票价上就基本看得出来。老天看在我这次没逃票的面子上，终于让休息了几天的太阳露面了。进大门第一个景点是小七孔古桥——经常出现在杂志媒体上的小七孔志性景观就是它了。顾名思义有七个桥孔的石桥跨在说不清是绿还是蓝的水面之上，桥头一棵老树枝繁叶茂老藤缠绕，泛出些秋天的颜色，确实很入画。这幅画面已经被拍滥了，但既然来了，还是完成任务一样的举起相机，拍下基本雷同的照片，证明到此一游。千姿百态的水是小七孔景区的主，景区的游览公路和步道就沿着山谷里的一带碧水修建，一路跌水瀑布不断。正值周末，加上小七孔名声在外，景区里游客很多，习惯了前几日“包山”“包水”的专场游，现在要面对经常窜入镜头的人头很有些不适应。水上森林，一段有点坡度的溪流中长出的树林，所谓“树在水上，水在林中”，如果用相机慢门拍摄，会出现银白色的丝缎在茂密的林中缠绕穿行的画面。因降雨涨起来的溪水淹没了林中的一些步道，需要脱鞋涉水。难得一次亲近自然地机会让人们兴奋异常，即便深秋的溪水已经冰冷刺脚也愿意在水里多站一会嬉笑拍照。卧龙潭，远远透过树林的缝隙瞥见潭水的颜色就被hold住了。尽管曾经的小水电开发在潭口留下一道人工的堤坝，但这丝毫不影响卧龙潭的惊艳。潭水漫过弧形的石堤，在石壁上摊开成一挂优雅的百褶裙，前几天的降雨让每一道“褶皱”饱满圆润，从容坠落。而百褶裙后面那潭水色更让人词穷，就像兑进去无数瓶“湖蓝”颜料，蓝的失真。鸳鸯湖，光从岸上看，湖水似乎比不过卧龙潭，只有坐船深入，才能体会出它的独特。和码头管理员磨了半天嘴皮子，才同意让我一个人划一条船。划过一片开阔的水面进入湖深处，发现这里面别有一番天地：两岸茂密的植被茂密，水道时宽时窄纵横交错，要不是时常遇见别的游船我都要担心会有迷路的可能。转过几个小岛，几棵大树在镜面一样的湖水中静立，水色随着湖底深浅和光线明暗不断幻化，颇有些魔幻世界的调调。天钟洞，愿爬到半山腰上看溶洞的游客不多，等满十个人才有个讲解员带入洞。洞中游览路线不长，洞中的沉积景观也无非被讲解员包装成大象狮子美女人脸之类。镇洞之宝是一柱浑圆粗壮的石笋，像口大钟稳稳扣在洞厅中央。远远看着石笋和旁边渺小的游客，暗暗感叹时光的力量。回程车上，迷糊中听得前排女声问司机小吃街云云，惊醒，跟着跳下车。遂于同为独自出行的游者搭上话，AA烤鱼杨梅汤，大快朵颐……原来我也是个吃货。D5 2011年10月30日在去往三都县都江镇颠簸的中巴车上，售票大姐得知我要去怎雷村，特地介绍了车上一位回怎雷村的小伙给我认识。小伙是苗族，在浙江打工好几年，普通话说得不错。已经3年没有回过家的他对于家乡的近况也不是太清楚，这次回家是为了过农历十一月里苗家十三年一次的盛大鼓藏节，杀猪，斗牛，跳芦笙……小伙描述的过节场景听的我心神向往。“结婚了吗？”小伙腼腆一笑，指了指车前排。“结了，在前面坐着呢，一个寨的。”“以后准备就呆在城市里还是回来呢……”“恩……回来吧……”他略一沉吟，“老家空气好啊……”小伙笑着转过头，望向窗外河谷里静静流淌的都柳江。 都江镇坐落在都柳江河谷半山腰上，因坡度大，公路在镇上折了好几个“之”字。帮那对小夫妻搬着行李爬上最上一层街道，强烈的民族风一下子扑面而来。正逢镇上赶集，周边村寨的村民都前来“赶场”，晃动着各种花花绿绿民族服饰的街道格外热闹。跟还要在镇上逛街访亲戚的小夫妻告了别，转身去寻找去怎雷的面包车。 我这身冲锋衣和背上的大包在人群中格外扎眼，周围的乡亲们都穿着陌生的服饰说着陌生的语言，用疑惑的目光看着我这异客。尽管我尽力保持微笑以示友好，但心里却因为忽然包围的陌生环境而无所适从，竟有想按“ESC”退出游戏的古怪念头。 不过人们的纯朴热情很快消除了这种不适感。坐上面包车，左边是一位身着水绿色布衣，包着白色头巾的水族妇女；右边挤着苗族老阿婆，黑色油布衣上绣着彩色绣片。乘客们都是怎雷村的，一路上彼此说笑着。我也没受冷落，大家用我能大概听懂的贵州当地话（他们叫“客话”）和我聊天，为我在村中的住宿行程出主意。一旁的老阿婆念叨着农村人衣服太脏，尽管我一再解释，阿婆还是刻意避免她的衣服挨上我的衣服，让我十分过意不去——我这一星期没换的衣服也没干净到哪去啊。 在都江镇的坡顶上就能远远看见怎雷村寨层层叠叠的瓦屋顶了。但望山跑死马，面包车又是下山又是上山绕了40分钟才到村口。“怎雷”水语意为岩脚下的寨子，据寨中老者说已有300多年历史，现为贵州省首批典型民族文化村寨之一。怎雷由上寨，中寨，下寨和排长组成。其中上、中、下三寨依次坐落在半山坡上，主要居住着水、苗两族。从远处看，一片青瓦覆盖的传统民居建筑与青山浑然一体，梯田、林地点缀其间，颇具特色。 沿水泥路走进上寨，经过的一座新修的寨门显露出旅游开发的痕迹。循着一阵新鲜豆腐的香气找到挂着“旅游定点接待户”的韦刚林家住宿，大嫂正在房前做着热气腾腾的豆腐。 韦大哥一家为水族人，儿女都在外地打工，家里就他们夫妇二人和一位失聪的老父亲。韦大哥带我走上吱嘎作响的木楼梯登至二楼，坐到外廊的“美人靠”上。这里视野开阔，几层梯田之后是中寨错落的屋顶和蒙蒙远山。 韦大哥说门口那块接待牌已经挂了好几年，村里也曾为了发展旅游修整了村中的道路，还搞了座博物馆。但由于怎雷位置太过偏僻，交通不便，近几年除了比较大的节日外，游客都寥寥无几。“我以后想在屋门口的坝子上盖个凉亭，这样可以吸引游客……”他的汉话说的不太流利，但从语气里能听出他对美好未来的期盼。“就是不知道这旅游什么时候搞的起来哦……”韦大哥最后叹了口气，无奈的冲我笑笑。旅游业对于地处贵州大山中的穷困山村来说似乎是快速发展经济的有效手段之一。但从乡村旅游发展的现状来看，在找到一条解决传统文化保护与村民物质生活改善矛盾的途经之前，旅游开发到底是福是祸，谁也说不清楚。 晚餐是火锅，其实就是“一锅熟”，贵州少数民族地区最常见的做菜方式——一锅酸汤，放入菜或肉煮着吃，锅上架一铁圈，放上一个小碗盛蘸料用。今天算我有口福，赶上韦大哥今天去赶场买回一条当地人叫“塘角鱼”的大鱼，肉嫩味鲜，和着现做的嫩豆腐，沾上放了一种有奇特味道香草的辣椒，真是美味的原生态酸汤鱼大餐。虽然早闻黔东南人民的酒量，但他家自酿的米酒酒味不重，微甜的味道让我放松了警惕，跟大哥大嫂你一口我一碗的喝了三碗。没想米酒后劲十足，酒劲一上来我就华丽倒下了。D6 2011年10月31日 天蒙蒙亮，怎雷村头的小学校就开始播放音乐，那些熟悉轻快的校园民谣让我在半梦半醒间仿佛穿越回曾经的童年时代。早上起来头不痛心不恶，果然是好酒不上头。怎雷的民居都是清一色的干栏建筑，木柱木墙覆歇山瓦顶（寨中新建的房子首层有开始采用砖混结构的，不仅让建筑更稳固，也起到防火的效果），大部分建筑都被岁月浸上一层深褐色，其中不乏上百年的老房子。民居多为两层，首层养牲口堆放杂物（也有临公路边的人家把首层改作店铺），二层则是起居区域，因此通常看到木楼梯直通二层。楼上一般有一外廊，或悬挑或有柱落地。虽然建筑结构都为干栏式，但寨中各家各户并不局限于统一的形式，如楼梯的位置有的放于侧面直通二层房门，有的置于正面通向外廊；外廊的利用也多样，有当外阳台使用，做栏杆“美人靠”，也有做成晾台挂满玉米，还有的人家把部分外廊围合起来扩大房间面积。穿斗抬梁式木结构的灵活性让人们可根据自家使用、资金等情况选择合适的形式。 寨中的建筑都是顺山势而建，基本都不在一个水平面上，因此形成一个立体的建筑聚落空间：路一侧是架在半坡上得仰望的吊脚楼，而另一侧却只看到下层坡地上建筑的瓦屋顶……穿行其间是一种有趣的空间体验。怎雷村上寨和下寨都是水族人居住，中寨则既有水族又有苗族。单从建筑上其实分辨不出水族和苗族的差别——村中人家造房请的都是同一批木匠师傅。不过晾在窗前屋外的不同的民族服饰就像鲜明的旗帜，让人一下就能分清族别。生活在同一片屋檐下的水苗两族人们并不因为穿着不同的服装而划清界限各自生活。在怎雷村，水族人会说苗话，苗族人会讲水话，既延续各自的传统，也彼此交流尊重，求同存异。走在寨里的小道上，时常能见到这样的场景：苗族妇女和水族妇女一起坐在屋檐下聊天，一边的水族妇女手中缝着水族风格的绣花鞋，另一边的苗族妇女灵活操纵着织布机，织着色彩鲜艳的苗族彩布……走进中寨的一户苗族人家，男主人正在做木工装修自家的房子，他妻子和老妈妈则忙碌着织布绣衣。男主人也姓韦——韦姓是怎雷村的一大姓，看着和我年龄相仿。韦兄告诉我，他们想赶在鼓藏节之前把房子装好，好迎接客人——十三年一次的鼓藏节每家都会来十几桌客人，女人们赶制的新衣服也就是为过节准备的。“那你怎么不穿苗服呢？”我问。我发现村中的男性很少有穿民族服装的。“穿那个太麻烦了，”韦兄笑着指指他老婆正穿着的艳丽的苗服。“她们穿着漂亮，向日葵色板官方是还要干活的，那衣服太容易破了……”我也注意到村中的男性确实很少有穿民族服装的了。“修一栋这样的房子多少钱呢？”我对农村房屋的造价很感兴趣。“六、七万吧……听说城里一个平米要几万块啊……”看来城市住房的高房价已臭名远扬。在城市里，人们倾其所有，像寄居蟹一样得到个小盒子，能不遇到拆迁住个几十年就算不错了。而在像怎雷一样的山村地区，一栋屹立百年的老屋可以居住数代人，破了旧了就在原址修复重建，这不仅是居住文化的沿袭传承，而且是联系整个家族承上启下的纽带，一个家族的根系就在他们热爱的土地上深深扎下来。([]
我半夜睡着无内内的妺妺
曾丽芬世界最高的地方在哪里？——阿里世间最纯洁的地方在哪里？——阿里如果你想感受天地的宽广，时间的永恒，去阿里吧！如果你想与苍穹对话，与日月共生，去阿里吧！2010年6月，向日葵色板官方，把身影留在阿里；向日葵色板官方，将欢笑撒在阿里！ 向日葵色板官方曾徜徉于一个又一个美妙的错畔...... 我们曾静静遥望雄壮的喜玛拉雅山脉...... 向日葵色板官方曾用双脚丈量高山的尺度...... 向日葵色板官方曾用心灵阅读历史的深遂...... 向日葵色板官方迎来一个又一个日出...... 向日葵色板官方送走一片又一片余辉...... 阿里的天地永远是那样宽广...... 阿里的世界永远是那样律动...... 让向日葵色板官方带你走进阿里的视界......故事就此展开......出场人物：（排名不分先后）老王，北京人，脸上总是乐呵呵的，全程同向日葵色板官方转山，令向日葵色板官方非常佩服...... 单车，江苏人，头一次进藏就选择了阿里，竟然从头到尾没有任何高反症状，非凡人也......（此照片为赤脚立于班公错内） 火火，现居上海，别看身材娇小，可体力超群，令人望尘莫及啊...... ECCO，现居上海，糕点专家，你说将来在上海请向日葵色板官方吃你亲手做的蛋糕噢......（此照片为托蛋糕式）老唐，北京人，策划此次阿里之行功不可莫，再次谢谢啦......（此照片为红豆蝇自拍版） 小光，北京人，此行阿里竟然没有带厚手套、厚帽子，转山岗仁波齐我俩一人一只手套......（此照片为5630米卓玛拉山口）小明，我，此行阿里的召集人，希望大家还满意我设计的行程哈...... 开篇及人物介绍： 1页——2页具体行程安排：6月15日——6月19日：各路人马拉萨集结，就行程做最后讨论，采购物资，与司机见面，验车，合同6月20日：拉萨——羊湖——江孜——日喀则 3页——6页6月21日：日喀则——萨迦——拉孜——新定日 6页——9页6月22日：新定日——希夏邦马——佩枯错——萨嘎——新仲巴 10页——14页6月23日：新仲巴——帕羊——马悠木拉山——霍尔——齐乌寺（玛旁雍措畔） 14页——20页6月24日：齐乌寺——普兰 20页——24页6月25日：普兰——塔钦——开始转山——止热寺（转山第一天） 25页——30页6月26日：止热寺——卓玛拉山口——塔钦（转山第二天） 31页——40页6月27日：塔钦——巴尔兵站——札达 40页——45页6月28日：札达——古格遗址——那木如——狮泉河 45页——55页6月29日：狮泉河——班公措——狮泉河 56页——62页6月30日：狮泉河——革吉——改则 63页——66页7月1日： 改则——洞错——措勤（扎日南木错日落） 69页——73页7月2日： 措勤——当惹庸错——当穷错——尼玛（慎走此路） 73页——78页7月3日： 尼玛——色林错——班戈 78页——80页7月4日： 班戈——巴木错——纳木错——拉萨 80页——81页后记： 81页——82页 此次阿里之行的几大亮点：1 冈仁波齐转山 冈仁波齐风景壮美，转山路线成熟，补给相对容易，如果身体状况尚可，建议去阿里的朋友一定不要错过噢！2 阿里地区的美错 阿里地区的错实在太多了，一个比一个漂亮，让人目不暇接，惊喜连连！向日葵色板官方一致认定藏北羌塘草原的当惹庸错拔得头筹！3 阿里地区的野生动植物资源 阿里地区是野生动物的乐园，此次阿里之行让向日葵色板官方大饱眼福，同时也再次增强我们保护环境，保护野生动物的意识！ 6月20日：拉萨——羊湖——卡若拉冰川——满拉水库——江孜——日喀则 小雨转晴天出发时间：8点到达时间：18点路况信息：全程柏油路，路况非常好今天是出发的第一天，早早就起床了。呀！下雨了！只见天空阴沉沉的，雨水将往日的拉萨冲刷的有些模糊。出发的日子竟然下雨，心中不免有些懊恼！车子驶出拉萨，沿拉萨河向南行进。......远处的岗巴拉垭口方向，天空好像露出了些许的蓝色，是错觉么？天空会不会放晴呢？不一会儿，车子驶到雅鲁藏布江畔。由于天气的原因，此刻的雅江没有了往日的清澈，江水泛着泥沙般地的灰色，不过宽阔的河床还是让人看着很舒畅！天空真的开始有变化了！云的防线被瓦解了。厚厚的云层被风无情的撕开了几个小口子，蓝天露了出来。开始翻岗巴拉垭口了！这已经是我第三次来这里了，山还是同样的山，路也依旧是同样的路，但此行的目的地却是我向往已久的阿里地区，噢耶！随着海拔的升高，前方的垭口越来越近，而身后的雅江河谷越来越渺小。人生就像这山与谷，总有高潮和低谷！到垭口了。今年开始羊湖开始收门票了，40元/人。在羊湖两头的必经之地，有专人把守，想逃票？希望不大！羊湖依旧没有变，只是收门票多了些商业味道......天气确实在渐渐转好，向日葵色板官方的运气还是不错的噢！阳光射了下来，湖面也渐渐的有了些许的层次，不过远处的宁金抗沙峰依旧躲在云层中。 拉近看看即将走的路...... 车子顺车道下行，顺着羊湖畔向浪卡子方向前进。在高处俯视羊湖和在岸边平视羊湖的感觉有很大的不同。俯视，统揽全局；平观，品味细节。羊湖的海拔4441米，向日葵色板官方在岸边找到了羊湖的志，赶紧拍照！此时的天空已经完全放晴！看来俗语说的对：高原多夜雨啊！羊湖也开始展现它绚烂的一面——蓝色尽情绽放！ 如果可以给我一顶帐篷，我想我一定会在这里头枕波涛甜美的睡上一觉......([]
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